Phil Young wrote:

Quick version:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where the
heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot. I've
tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really, really
tight to no good effect.

Is there anything else I should try ?

Longer version:

I've had an Ariston washer dryer for about 12 years. It's been
reliable apart from the heating elements which tend to last about 3-4
years (so I'm on my fourth at the moment). Luckily it's just some
generic one so I've been able to get them fairly cheaply from the
local washing-machine parts shop.

The element slots into an aperture at the lower rear of the (steel)
outer drum. It's fixed in place by tightening a screw which pulls up
a plate to compress a thick rubber seal which then expands to grip the
edge of the drum. Sorry if that's a bit long winded but it's one of
those difficult to describe things that is obvious when you see it in
front of you.

The problem is that the slot has corroded over the years so the rubber
grommet isn't sealing. I've been able to seal it previously with boss
white but this time it's no go. I've tried silcone sealant as well
with no better result.

Repairing the slot would be very difficult - I'd probably have to cut
out the whole area and weld in a larger patch with the original sized
hole cut in it. This isn't really feasible, the slot is down at the
very edge of the drum and any patch would conflict with the motor
bracket and the various level sensors. To do a proper repair would
involve stripping the whole thing down to get the drum out which looks
a nightmare.

So it looks as if the best option would be to use something to plug
the leak. As I've said, boss white and silicone sealant don't seem to
be holding, so is there anything else I should be trying ? Can you
get bars-leaks for washing machines ? I really don't want to throw it
away because a few grams of metal have gone AWOL.

Cheers,

Phil Young

I expect the silicone is sticking to the rust and that the rust itself
being porous, is allowing water to seep through. I expect also that you
are using standard silicone which releases acetic acid (vinegar smell?)
which will further exacerbate the rust corrosion.

You could try killing the rust with jenolite or similar phosphoric acid
based stuff, allow to dry and then paint with multiple layers of cellulose
over a zinc or epoxy based primer.
Once this is really hardened, refit the element with electronic grade
silicone (no acetic acid from this type). Don't bolt up really tight for
a day to allow the silicone to form a seal before you squeeze it all out.
The next day, finally tighten.

Make sure every trace of water is removed before you start.

As an alternative to the paint treatment, after the jenolite stage,
annoint the surfaces with full strength araldite (not the rapid stuff !!)
to seal over the rust and well onto the enamel. If it is cold and the
surface won't smooth nicely, warm GENTLY with a hair dryer. Don't go too
mad with the heat otherwise is will all run away. Leave 24 hours plus
before using silcone to refit the element as above.

hth

Bob