"DanG" wrote in message
...
Brace, jack, shim, shore. Do whatever to get everything straightened out.
Check the roof line and the ceiling joist line. I am a bit surprised if
there are no signs of the rotted out portion.

Nope. What happened was the water ran down the rotted wood member (since
it's sloped) and at the end there drip into the block wall. The block wall
has furring strips on them, then sheet rock. Then a custom floor to ceiling
book case was mounted on the studs. So most of the staining was on the
sheet rock and furring strips and the book case blocked everything. It was
not until I ripped the book case out then the sheet rock I saw this.


Remove and replace any wood that has active rot - cut back to good sound
wood.


Done that.

If you can put in 12 footers, do it. If there are any other truss
members, duplicate them also. Sister the new members on using plenty of
panel adhesive and a generous nail pattern using common nails alternating
a high/low nail pattern. If the existing truss is old and well seasoned,
you may need to use a nail gun or pre drill a lead hole. Air gun nails
are thinner and do not generate the same sheer numbers that common nails
do.

Yes existing lumber there is 35 years old.


Custom cut a plywood gusset for each side of the damaged truss that fits
fairly well from the bottom of the bottom chord to rafter top, from
outside plate line to whatever 4' plywood would cover, keep the grain
vertical. Use good marine grade 7 ply. Glue everything. Throughbolt ply
to ply with 3/8 bolts with fender washers. The sandwich will be about 4
1/2" thick.

OK you mean to use the gusset on one side which is the damaged wood, the
other side will be over the new sistering wood right? Making the total
width 4 1/2".

What is the reason to use a gusset on the good side which is new?

The other problem I see is I would like to use a piece as large as possible
like up to 4' you suggested. However a big issue is there are AC ducts
running through there, and that would limit how far back I can go. Also
there is no way I can cut a piece this big and get it up through the 24"
hatch access and pass it through other trusses. I would have to cut an
access hole over 6' in length right where this is happening to get it in
there and still the AC duct would be in the way.

Can I use a gusset on either side of the AC duct?

Thanks,

MC


--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
Hi I am repairing some stained ceiling sheetrock in my garage, and after
removing some sections of it I realized there is more damage.

First the leak in the roof has been found and repair, so there should be
no more water penetration.

Now I can see the water leak has been there for a long time as the end of
the truss were severly damaged. The end of the joist and rafter meet and
they rest on the concrete block wall as shown below:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...aragetruss.jpg

Now there is a truss every 24" or so but one of them directly below the
leak is damaged very badly. If you look at the image attached, the
section labeled "C" in green when I pushed it just crumbled. Now the
good news is that the roof is still up and it has been like this for
years this truss has not been supporting it's share of the load for a
long time now. The ends where it is rotted away is about 12" or so in
length.

I went up to the attic and tried to see if it's possible to remove "A"
and "B" completely and put new lumbers in but this is going to be near
impossible with all the AC duct work running across, electric conduits
nailed along it, ceiling hi hats and fans etc...and very tight space.

So what I plan to do is to get two 12' 2x4s. I plan to put one adjacent
to the rafter and one adjacent to the joist for almost the entire length.
The question is now should I attach the two?

Should I drill a hole every 18" or so and insert large (1/2") bolts
through both and tie them together?

Or should I use some sort of structural glue/epocy to glue both together?

Or should I use those galvanized steel tie/straps to nail them together?

Or all of the above?

I also plan to insert some vertical wood members between the new sister
rafter and joist.

Or this is all wrong?

Thanks in advance,

MC