View Single Post
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
DanG DanG is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,066
Default roof truss repair question

Homemade trusses were and are made with plywood gussets glued and
nailed instead of the gang press plates used at truss factories.
You and I have no way to press those plates into the lumber. The
suggestion was to use plywood gussets that you can glue, nail,
bolt, etc.

____________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"steve robinson" wrote in
message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:

Hi I am repairing some stained ceiling sheetrock in my garage,
and
after removing some sections of it I realized there is more
damage.

First the leak in the roof has been found and repair, so there
should
be no more water penetration.

Now I can see the water leak has been there for a long time as
the
end of the truss were severly damaged. The end of the joist
and
rafter meet and they rest on the concrete block wall as shown
below:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...garagetruss.jp
g

Now there is a truss every 24" or so but one of them directly
below
the leak is damaged very badly. If you look at the image
attached,
the section labeled "C" in green when I pushed it just
crumbled. Now
the good news is that the roof is still up and it has been
like this
for years this truss has not been supporting it's share of the
load
for a long time now. The ends where it is rotted away is
about 12"
or so in length.

I went up to the attic and tried to see if it's possible to
remove
"A" and "B" completely and put new lumbers in but this is
going to be
near impossible with all the AC duct work running across,
electric
conduits nailed along it, ceiling hi hats and fans etc...and
very
tight space.

So what I plan to do is to get two 12' 2x4s. I plan to put
one
adjacent to the rafter and one adjacent to the joist for
almost the
entire length. The question is now should I attach the two?

Should I drill a hole every 18" or so and insert large (1/2")
bolts
through both and tie them together?

Or should I use some sort of structural glue/epocy to glue
both
together?

Or should I use those galvanized steel tie/straps to nail them
together?

Or all of the above?

I also plan to insert some vertical wood members between the
new
sister rafter and joist.

Or this is all wrong?

Thanks in advance,

MC


Cut back the rot treat the timber

bolt your timber either side , between the truss and timber
insert
spike washers / timber connectors

Fit a 18mm ply gusset over the repair

before you do any of the above check the truss for alignment
with the
rest of the system and prop it in place

--


Got it, except for one part - what is a 18mm ply gusset? Are
those the metal plates with lots of holes in it for framing
nails?

Thanks.

MC