Thanks. This is exactly what I thought from watching DIY-er shows and
some reading. I figured a one or more 2x4 "T" braces would hold it in
place against a level line on the wall while I level up, align, screw
in, etc.

Re wavy walls, I get your point about a drywall seam. But can't you/
shouldn't you shove a shim board behind the cab from the bottom up
where there is a gap (in your example, on both ends)? Even if its
just a narrow piece of 1/8" plywood, that way there is no bending
pressure on the back of the cab once you tighten up the screws?

--Jeff


You're right, it isn't rocket science.

Easiest thing to do is install the uppers first. Easiest way to do
that is to rest them - one at a time - on a pair of narrow 2x4
crutches built for the purpose. Once the uppers are up, the lowers are
easy.

The cabinets are screwed to the wall studs from the cabinet inside
through the nailing strip(s). However, don't lock the screws down
real tight until all are up. At that point, align the front edges of
the cabinets and hold them that way with handscrews. Assuming the
cabinets have face frames (and that you took off the doors prior to
hanging) screw the cabinets to their neighbors through the edge of the
face frame. If the hinges mount on the face frame then under the
hinge is a good place to put the screws. Once the cabinets are all
screwed together, take off the handscrew clamps and tighten the screws
holding them on the wall...easy does it, because walls aren't flat and
you don't want to rack the cabinets.

The fact that walls aren't flat is the only real PITA when hanging
cabinets. For example, it may be that the center cabinet is against a
vertical drywall seam which means the sides of the end cabinets won't
be flush to the wall. Two possible fixes...if the back edge of the
side allows it, you can spile it to the wall; if not, use molding.

--

dadiOH
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