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Billy Smith Billy Smith is offline
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Default How to set up a hand plane

Neillarson wrote:
I have been a woodworker for a while but never got into the hand tool
craze, probably because I am a technologist by profession.

Now that has changed, I have fallen in love with my chisels and
Japanese saws, and I have been picking up a few chisels. Nothing
fancy, a couple of wood Japanese planes, 1 a jack and the other a
smoother. I also have 3 Groz, a 7, 5 and a 4 I think. A couple
Stanley, a block and an old rabbit plus a Bailey low angle block. I
have perfected my sharpening, or so I believe, I use a Jet sharpener
and ceramic stones to make a nice razor sharp hollow ground edge. I
have set my edges about 2.5 degrees higher than the normal angles to
make up for the hollow grinding.

The chisels are great and the couple planes I can get adjusted
properly cut silky smooth translucent shavings on hard maple and
walnut. But the issue is getting them adjusted. I usually get one of
two situations, no shavings (or dust) or the plane won't move due to
the big bite I am trying to take.

Is there a rule of thumb for how much blade is to stick out thru the
sole? If there a "trick" to getting it there? Or is this strictly an
eyeball type of process? I was thinking that if I set the plane on a
flat softwood surface, and adjusted the plane iron till it was flat on
the wood and square to it, then gave it a good nudge, it would be fine
(didn't work very well). I would appreciate any helpful suggestions.

Neil Larson

There really is a lot to learn about using hand planes. I would start
by reading as much as I can about how planes are supposed to work and
the basics of setting them up so they can work. Using the right kind
of plane, a flat sole, blade shape and angle, mouth adjustment, all
matter. The blade's gotta be razor-sharp. And you have to learn how to
read the wood grain, how to handle difficult grain, and the proper
technique for pushing the plane too.

Once I get all the basics under control, I find that the method you
mentioned works fine, i.e. start with the blade not touching the wood
and move it down in small increments until it does. I adjust it by
feel, making very small adjustments.