"DanG" wrote in message
...
| Residential doors tend to be 1 3/8" thick, commercial doors tend
| to be 1 3/4". |
actually
exterior doors (residential or commercial) are 1 3/4" thick
interior doors (residential or commercial) are 1 3/8"thick
| Doors should be beveled on both the hinge and strike sides. 1 3/8
| doors are more forgiving about bevel. An old carpenter adage
| sizes the gaps around the door as a dime on top and a nickel on
| the sides.
The bevel and cut are easiest done with a Rockwell
| porta plane, but these are too expensive for one door.
wouldn't any brand planer work?
or maybe order the door beveled already (instead of square).
Making the
| hinge mortises line up with the jamb will be the hardest part.
| The mortises in the jamb will have to be set deeper if you go to
| the 1 3/4 door and the existing screw holes will need to be
| filled. The hinges may need to be replace with larger hinges or
| adding an additional hinge if the door weight is very different.
| The strike will have to be re-set also. If this is your first
| attempt, it will certainly be easier to replace the door and jamb
| with a prehung unit or stay with the same thickness door.
|
| Hope this helps make some decisions.
|
| ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
| DanG
| A live Singing Valentine quartet,
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|
| "New & Improved - N/F John" wrote in
| message news:vNSph.47$R76.31@trnddc05...
| I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated
| enclosed
| porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want to
| replace the
| jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's
| width on the
| outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little less
| than 30
| inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing door is
| 1 and 3/8's
| inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.
|
| The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I have
| the door's
| outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the door
| trimmed on
| both sides about a quarter of an inch total?
|
|
|
|