"coolerdoctor" wrote in message
news:a7a7822ea21e2d52db0f68f35a4b58b8@homerepairli ve.com...
These have been some great suggestions. Here's mine:

In some cases you can actually replace the bottom pan. To replace the pan
(bottom), it has to be a replacable pan. To determine if it is, see if it
is bolted to the upright supports. If there are no screws or bolts it is
not replaceable. If there are, then try to find out who the manufacturer
isand contact them for the replacement pan.

If you can't replace the pan you might be able to use a "drop-in" pan
liner. If you can't find a drop-in pan liner from a local store (they are
getting harder to find), try a piece of sheetmetal or rigid fiberglass.
Seal around the edges with a "plumbers epoxy" putty (dries in about 15
minutes). If you put the patch on the inside you will have to clean the
pan where patch edges will be so the epoxy will stick. To cut a hole for
the overflow tube, use a hammer and chisel or screwdriver and punch around
the area where the hole needs to be. Seal this hole with epoxy putty.

You can use the putty for holes in other areas as well. Always clean as
much of the rust away as possable.

Anytime you have rust present, USE AN ANODE!!!! Anodes stop or aleast
slows rust.

To learn more service and repair information on evaporative coolers,
visit:
www.easycoolercare.com

Larry Galpin

My cooler is rusted through on the sides just under the pad frame. It's a
9,000 CFM and I'm going to try to fix it with fiberglass and submarine
sealer. Have you actually used "plumbers epoxy" putty? Over the last 30+
years I've tried all kinds of stuff from roof coatings to water tank sealer.
Nothing seems to last very long.

Al