SQLit wrote:
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oups.com...

It would be nice if the holes lined up with the studs, but I doubt that
will be the case. No instructions of course. I was thinking that I
might get some stronger mollys.


Molly's are not going to be much better. The wings give slightly more
surface area.

One side of the cabinet should be able to be aligned to a stud, or add
framing until it does.
One side into the structure and the other with dry wall anchors your ready
for almost anything.



Have you used molly and the plastic thingys? It
doesn't take much effort to pull the plastic
things out of the wall. If you pull a molly out
you will take a 3-4 inch chunk of wall. There is
no comparison of mollys with the plastic thingys
for holding power.

I have an approximately 2 foot square cabinet I
built of 3/4 maple plywood with three shelves in
my bathroom. The top holds a mess of bottles,
alcohol, peroxides etc. in addition to soap bars
and other stuff. Yeah I know it is a mess, but
most is my wife mess. Don't know how much it
weighs but the cabinet itself probably weight
15-20 pounds. Studs were just not in the right
place. #10 screw mollys hold it very securely and
it has been removed twice for painting. You do
have to drill the holes the correct size for the
molly (and don't use the stupid pointed type meant
to be drive in) and tighten the screw carefully to
get the correct tension so that the bolt is tight
but the paper layers on the wallboard are not
pierced and center isn't crushed.